Rules can't be broken, except when they can

Indonesia’s contradictions are never more apparent than in the interpretation of rules. As with any society, the rules here are meant to maintain order, preserve safety and generally make sure things run like a well oiled machine. That’s where the fantasy ends though and the key word is interpretation.

With rules, people are as apt here to read into the spirit of the them as much as the letter, but they are also pretty likely to break them.

I’m currently on Belitung, a small island off the coast of Sumatra having a weeks holiday and this time round I decided to rent a motorbike for the duration of my stay. I’ve mentioned before that driving licences are bought, not earned but that’s as much down to the rampant corruption as it is to any thought for law or rules. Helmets, and the wearing of said item, are more of a personal area of choice for rule interpretation.

 A guy breaking the rules

Today I rode my bike the 30 minutes it takes to get to Tanjung Tinggi and I went all the way, there and back, without a helmet. Now some people would say this is just personal stupidity on my part as the main reason for the helmet is safety. However, on an island of only a handful of people (compared to the 25 million in Jakarta anyway, it’s nearly impossible to have an accident. The second point was that since I would be riding so slowly so as to find great photo opportunities, that even if a rogue Indonesian rider/driver did something crazy the worst I could expect would be dust marks on my shorts.

 Anyway, I arrived back at the hotel as the weather had turned dull and was about to walk into town when the receptionist stopped me and asked why I was walking there. An unusual request anywhere else as it’s probably only a 10 minute stroll, but she still insisted I was crazy to walk and should take the scooter. To be on the safe side I thought I’d ask about the local law regarding helmets. Very gravely she assured me that the not wearing of helmets was punishable ,by some fate worse than death (at least this was what I read into her clearly panic stricken face) so I donned my helmet to obvious signs of satisfaction, rode into town and passed numerous people not wearing a helmet. Admittedly the police would take great delight in stopping an unwary rider and demanding some form of payment as fine for the offense, but I have yet to actually see a policeman here in 2 separate visits to the Island!

And don't get me started on 4 people on one moped.....